The use of rose in perfumery
The rose is not just a flower; it's a universe in the world of fragrances. Its scent is the most recognizable and, perhaps, the most beloved in perfumery. It can be delicate and moist, like morning dew, or intoxicating and sweet, like Turkish rahat-loukum. No reputable perfume house can do without it. But how do these elixirs come from millions of petals? And why does "rose" in perfumes cost so much? How Rose Oil is Obtained The production of rose oil is a jewel-making process, almost alchemy. The most common method is steam distillation. Fresh petals (usually Rosa damascena) are loaded into a still, steam is passed through them. The essential oil evaporates, condenses, and floats to the surface of the water. The output of oil is minimal: from 3-5 tons of petals, only 1 liter of oil is obtained! That's why natural rose oil is exorbitantly expensive. A more modern method is extraction with organic solvents (to obtain concrete and absolute). This gives a more saturated, "alive" aroma, close to the scent of a living flower. Main "rose" regions: The Rose Valley in Bulgaria and Turkey The Rose Valley in Bulgaria (between the cities of Kazanlak and Karlovo) is the world capital of rose oil. Here, oil-bearing rose (Rosa damascena) is grown, which gives the finest, honey-spicy aroma. The petals are harvested in May-June, by hand, at dawn, before the sun evaporates the essential oils. The second important region is Turkey (the region of Isparta). Turkish rose oil is stronger, heavier, with pepper and fruit notes. Roses are also grown in France (Grasse), Morocco, India, China. Each region gives its own hue: French Centifolia — honey-animal, Persian — with a note of saffron. Classification of Roses in Perfumery: From Solitaire to Accord In perfumery, roses are used differently. "Solitaire" is when the rose is the main and only star (for example, "Une Rose" by Frédéric Malle, "Sa Majesté la Rose" by Serge Lutens). But more often, the rose is part of a complex accord. ... Read more
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