Anchovies are small silver fish that evoke polar feelings. Some love their salty-spicy taste, while others hate them for their distinctive aroma. But the truth is that anchovies are not just fish; they are a whole culinary universe. They are indispensable in Mediterranean cuisine: pasta, pizza, salads, sauces. Caesar salad is unimaginable without them, and anchovy oil can transform any dish. But why is this small fish so highly valued? How to cook them properly to bring out the flavor rather than spoil it? Let's find out.

What are anchovies and why are they so salty

Anchovies (lat. Engraulidae) are a family of small fish found in the Atlantic, Mediterranean, and Black Seas, as well as off the coast of Peru (Peruvian anchovies, the main feed fish). In cuisine, the European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) is most commonly used. Fresh anchovies are tender with a delicate taste reminiscent of sardines. But they gained worldwide fame in canned form: salted or in oil. The process of salting (or "anchovy curing") lasts several months. The fish is sprinkled with salt and, under the action of its own enzymes, it "ripenes," acquiring a piquant, umami-rich taste and a soft texture. Salt also kills bacteria and allows the fish to be stored for years. It is the salted anchovies that are the main ingredient in Mediterranean cuisine.

How to choose quality anchovies

There are two types of products on the market: the anchovies themselves (anchovies in salt or oil) and their cheap imitation — sardines or sprats, processed in the same way. Genuine anchovies have delicately pink or reddish-brown meat, a pleasant, not sharp smell. Good canned anchovies: fillets in olive oil, sometimes with capers. Avoid anchovies in sunflower oil (cheap oil distorts the taste). Whole salted anchovies (in a jar or can) are the choice of professionals. They need to be soaked in water or milk for 30-60 minutes before eating to remove excess salt. In 2026, vegan "anchovies" made from seaweed with added glutamate appeared on the market, but this is not serious.

The technology of anchovy curing: the science of taste

Anchovy curing is the process of ripening fish under the action of its own enzymes (autolysis). Fresh fish is mixed with salt (about 20-30% of the weight), laid out in barrels in layers. Salt draws out water, creating a medium where putrefactive bacteria do not live. Instead, proteolytic enzymes (cathepsins) are activated, which break down proteins into amino acids, including glutamic acid (responsible for the taste of umami). Peptides are also formed, giving a specific "cheesy" note. The process lasts from 4 to 12 months. The result is a paste-like fillet with an intense aroma. Then the anchovies are cleaned of bones, packed in oil. Some producers use accelerated fermentation with the addition of proteases (bacterial cultures), but the traditional method is considered the best.

Anchovies in Italian cuisine

In Italy, anchovies (alici) are a national treasure. They are used in the sauce "bagna càuda" — a hot sauce made of garlic, anchovies, and olive oil, which is dipped into vegetables. This is a ritual of winter evenings in Piedmont. Pasta with anchovies (pasta con le alici) is a quick dish: fried garlic, anchovies, breadcrumbs, parsley. Neapolitan pizza "Margherita" often contains anchovies (although the classic version does not). Sicilian pasta "Anchovies and fennel" — wild fennel tones down the saltiness. Anchovies are added to the filling for arancini (rice balls). And of course, anchovies are a key component of pesto alla genovese? No, there are none. But there is the sauce "colonnata" — anchovies with vinegar, garlic, and parsley.

Anchovies in Spanish and French cuisine

In Spain, anchovies (anchoas) are a delicacy. They are served marinated in vinegar (boquerones en vinagre). Fresh anchovies are cleaned, marinated in vinegar, garlic, parsley, olive oil. Unlike salted ones, they are tender with a hint of acidity. This is a classic tapa. Spaniards also fry fresh anchovies in batter. In France, anchovies are the basis of the sauce "anchoïade" — a pâté made of anchovies, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, which is spread on bread or vegetables. In Provencal cuisine, anchovies are added to stews, sauces for lamb, pies (pissaladière). Anchovies also go into the vinaigrette for the salad Niçoise (with tuna, egg, olives).

Caesar sauce and other unexpected uses

The classic Caesar sauce must contain anchovies (usually in the composition of Worcestershire sauce or directly as a paste). This gives it depth and saltiness. Many do not even realize that they owe the piquancy of their favorite dressing to anchovies. Also, anchovies are added to the sauce "sals verde" — a green sauce made of parsley, capers, garlic, olive oil, and anchovies — perfect for boiled meat. Anchovy paste (umami bomb) is used to enrich soups, stews, sauces. It is spread on toast before adding tomatoes or cheese. Anchovies in melted butter are the secret of delicious croutons.

How to use anchovies in home cooking

Do not be afraid of anchovies. They should not be the main flavor, but only a backdrop. Buy a jar of anchovies in olive oil. Store in the refrigerator (after opening — up to 3 months). Add one or two fillets, mashed into a paste, to tomato sauce for pasta — it will become richer. Melt an anchovy in butter with garlic, add cooked pasta, sprinkle with parsley — a simple dinner. Add anchovies to the vinaigrette for a green salad. Make anchovy oil: beat softened butter with finely chopped anchovy fillets, garlic, lemon zest. Store in the refrigerator, use for steaks, fish, vegetables.

Fresh anchovies: a rarity and a delicacy

Fresh anchovies are a completely different product. They are tender with a delicate taste. They are difficult to find in Russia, but in coastal regions (Black Sea, Baltic) fresh anchovies are sold in the summer. They can be fried in flour (5-7 minutes until golden), marinated (like boquerones), added to soups (borscht), baked with tomatoes and garlic. Fresh anchovies cannot be salted at home — the process requires precise temperature and control. It is better to buy ready-made salted ones.

Benefits and potential harm

Anchovies are a concentrate of useful substances. 100 g contains: 20 g of protein, 10 g of fat (mainly omega-3), 0 carbohydrates. They are rich in vitamins B12, D, calcium, iron, selenium. Regular consumption reduces the risk of cardiovascular diseases. Salted anchovies are very salty (up to 10-15% salt). People with hypertension, kidney diseases need to limit their intake. Also, there may be an allergy (to fish). Due to the high content of purines, it is not recommended for gout.

Anchovies are small fish with a big taste. They are like spices: in small doses, they transform a dish, but in large doses, they kill. Master them, and your cuisine will reach a new level. Do not believe those who say "I don't like anchovies." They just haven't tried them properly prepared.

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