Cravat in male suit: from military pragmatism to semiotics of power Cravat, perceived today as an integral attribute of business attire and a symbol of formality, has undergone a complex evolution from a utilitarian article of clothing to a powerful semiotic marker. Its history is a vivid illustration of the transformation of male fashion under the influence of military practice, political events, and social codes. 1. Military origin: Croatian mercenaries and "Croats" The history of the modern cravat in Western European tradition began in the mid-17th century during the Thirty Years' War. French soldiers noticed the bright neckerchiefs worn by Croatian mercenaries (Croats) serving under Louis XIII. These cotton or silk neckerchiefs, often with tassels, were used for protecting the collar of the coat from dirt and securing its upper edges. The Sun King Louis XIV, the lawgiver of fashion of his time, saw the aesthetic potential in this item. In the 1660s, he made the "Croats" (French cravate) a fashionable accessory at court. This was the first case where a military utilitarian item was adapted for civilian life, laying the foundation for a multi-century tradition. Interestingly, the word "cravat" in the Russian language is a calque from German Halstuch (neckkerchief), while in many European languages there is a reference to Croatia (French cravate, Spanish corbata, Portuguese gravata). 2. Evolution of form: from neckerchief to knot Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, the neckerchief constantly changed its form and method of tying: "Steinkerk": At the beginning of the 18th century, a style came into fashion in which a long neckerchief was carelessly tied into a knot, and the ends were passed through the loop of the waistcoat. The legend connects it with the Battle of Steinkerk (1692), when aristocrats had to tie their neckerchiefs in a hurry. Age of dandyism and complex knots: At the beginning of the 19th century, with the appearance of a high collar on shirts, th ... Read more