Collar in Women's Dress: Semiotics of Borrowing and Decoding Power The incorporation of the collar into the women's wardrobe represents a complex cultural phenomenon that goes far beyond fashion. It is an act of semiotic appropriation, a political gesture, and a tool for constructing gender identity. The history of the women's collar is the history of the struggle for social roles, read through the language of accessories. 1. Origins: Androgynous Rebellion and the Uniform of Emancipation Until the end of the 19th century, elements of men's clothing in women's wardrobes were marginal and associated with specific activities (horse riding). A turning point came with the emergence of the "Gibson girl" in the 1890s — a new, sporty, educated woman's image created by illustrator Charles Gibson. However, the true manifesto was Marlene Dietrich. Her appearance in the 1930 film " Morocco" in a smoking jacket and with a butterfly tie, and then in a free suit with a long tie, was a cultural shock. This was not cross-dressing, but a declaration: the attributes of male power and freedom can be claimed by a woman to create a new, dominant femininity. In parallel, the collar became part of the uniforms of women's auxiliary services during the world wars (e.g., British WAAF). Here it symbolized not rebellion, but duty, discipline, and equal contribution to the common cause, while remaining within the strict hierarchy. 2. 1960-1980s: From the "Blue Collar" to the Power of the "White Collar" The second wave of feminism in the 1960s and 1970s gave the collar a new, political meaning. Yves Saint Laurent became the icon when she presented the women's smoking suit "Le Smoking" in 1966. The butterfly tie in this ensemble was the key element, translating the symbol of male evening formality into the field of female luxury and confidence. This was an elegant deconstruction, not direct copying. The real revolution occurred in the 1980s with the arrival of the generation of career women in off ... Read more